“Love is a burning
thing.” - Johnny Cash.
Two weeks earlier, I was returning from Mount Rainier
National Park in Washington on my motorcycle after 8 days and 2,300 miles. I did not expect so quickly to
travel out to the badlands of New Mexico but the La Joya fiestas start in a few days.
I was born in the adobe house built by my dad. La Joya, like a magnet, is always pulling me
home. My bike does not complain; I feel it senses another adventure is before us.
It is such a dependable mount.
My alarm rings wildly at 5 a.m. This is way too early for me, but I move toward
the shower to wake up. Denise is sound
asleep, so I am quiet. My bike is ready
to go, and everything is in the best spot possible.
It looks good, but deep inside, I know that the gear packed so
well in the garage will go stubbornly into new places in the days ahead.
My bike fires up nicely and I’m off by 5:45 a.m.
Life on two wheels is exhilarating. |
McDonald’s serves me breakfast in Lindsay on Highway
65. My order arrives quickly and the
coffee smells good. This seems to be a
gathering place for many men laughing and telling stories. The three over there are older guys, and all
have baseball caps.
Another older gentleman is sitting next to me who asks quietly, “Is that your
motorcycle?” I nod. He speaks quietly and says that he owns a
motorcycle too but doesn’t ride much anymore.
“I mostly take it to motorcycle shows these days,” and adds proudly, “I’ve
won several first and second-place finishes.”
He looks surprised to hear that I’m heading off for New Mexico. “How many miles? Wow. Ride safe,” he adds as
he hears the miles and that I’m traveling alone.
Breakfast is good ~ sausage patties on biscuits, hash browns,
orange juice, and coffee. The three
older gentlemen are leaving, and they are walking around my bike. They are seriously looking it over, shaking
their heads with big smiles. One slaps
the other on his back. I can’t hear what
they are saying but it is obvious that they like it. One looks over my American flag and again
shakes his head. They all walk
slowly and each gets into separate pickup trucks with farm equipment and bales
of hay in the back. There must be some tough
ranchers.
I suspect that they all rode
horses in their younger days. My iron
horse sparked some vivid memories.
The first day will be a good 552 miles.
I know what lies ahead and camp number one is
just south of Ash Fork, Arizona. But up
ahead and halfway to Ash Fork is Barstow, California. This is a place where I grew up and my
brother Leo is likely at his office at the Barstow Police Department. I call him 50 miles from Barstow, “Leo,
do you want to have lunch today with Ronan, maybe at Plata’s Restaurant?” “I can’t, I have two prisoners in custody,
good luck on your trip he adds quickly.”
What do you do when 6 CHP patrol cars pull up behind you? Lunch. |
I met Ronan, another detective, a few years ago on one of my
trips out east. He rides a cool
Indian motorcycle and will meet me at Plata’s for lunch. As I pull up to Plata’s, there is a CHP
patrol car directly behind me. Then, four more patrol cars pull up within seconds. It seemed that they were there for a lunch
celebration and I thought the worst.
Ronan buys me lunch and we talk about motorcycle trips. I like him.
He is French and we have a good time over some great Mexican food. “If you want, stop by my house and take the
Indian out for a ride,” he says casually.
I have been seriously looking at the Indian motorcycle and this opportunity
is too good to pass up. We go to his
house and hands me his key, “Take it out on the freeway, open it up, and get a
good feel for the bike.” I did just
that. It accelerated to 80 mph easily and
a 6th gear was a treat.
“Thanks, Ronan, that was a smooth ride on the freeway. You have an awesome machine.”
Those memories would last a long time as I crossed the
Colorado River from California into Arizona.
This first day is a long one. I
drink several Gatorades as I fill up my gas tank. This is a hot spot; the thermometer reads 110
degrees.
Middle Satellite camp ~ south of Ash Fork, AZ. |
Now that I’m past Kingman the temperature begins to
drop, slowly, then quickly. At Ash Fork, I’ll travel 9 miles south on
Highway 89 to US Forest Service lands where I’ll camp tonight. The Harvest Moon is bright and I quickly
collect firewood and call this home.
It
is quiet here; I call this camp, middle satellite. There are no others
around. The coyote in the distance is my
companion. The fire is easy with an abundance of wood. Dinner is easy too and my bed is just nearby. The full moon provides all the light
necessary for the night.
My small
transistor radio picks up Window Rock and the Navajo chants, and on occasion
country-western music carries me somewhere next to heaven. I listen to the chants intently as I stir the
fire. I can see the Navajo dancers doing
the same, if only at another time.
Normally, I heat up water for coffee and have my traditional
cowboy breakfast. Today will be different,
as the Road House Cafe is just ten miles away.
“Two eggs over easy, corn beef hash, hash browns, sourdough toast, and
coffee,” rolls off automatically.
Actually, I’ve thought about this order for the last 10 miles. The waitress records my order and the coffee
is perfect.
Years ago, there was a local
customer, who talked constantly. We
called him Gabby Hayes. You did not want
to sit next to him as he could easily talk the paint off a wall. There are hunters having breakfast too and
they are discussing plans. They are
hunting elk. I like Ash Fork and breakfast is delicious. My plan today is to camp at El Morro National Monument in New Mexico.
El Morro National Monument is unique. This campground has 9 sites and this
will be home for tonight. The fee is
zero. Just register and claim your
spot. It is quiet and peaceful. The moon is still full and it brightly lights
up the sandstone cliffs beckoning me to climb which I’ll do in the morning.
History tells us that Juan Oñate traveled by here and inscribed
his name on the sandstone walls. In
1598, Oñate searched for gold but
found little. The precious water here at
El Morro kept his expedition alive. He
had many members on his expedition, charted by Queen Isabella of
Spain.
Juan Griego and his wife Pascuala
Bernal were among them. So for me, this
is a special place. As I look over the immense
landscape, I think they may have seen the very same views. The Griegos were early Spanish pioneers to
America.
My third leg of this trip is an easy one. Belen is just ahead where I’ll visit my 1st
cousin Tudie Romeo. There is a
surprise. Another cousin, James Garcia, is visiting as well and this is a special moment. Tudie’s wife Erlinda fixes us a nice New Mexico
lunch, with freshly peeled hot green chili. They hear about my adventures and know that
I’m off for the La Joya fiestas. James
rides a Harley and has taken several trips to Sturgis. He is a former resident of Barstow, a Vietnam
Veteran, a biker, and my cousin.
The curve in the road descending down into La Joya has
always been magical. As a kid, the
anticipation of this curve meant soon seeing our La Joya families. The cemetery is on my left at the bottom of
the hill, and with a quick glance, I say I will visit tomorrow.
Camp is simple.
Although I do not sleep inside the adobe house, I know full well that this
is where I was born 67 years ago. My fire is warm and bright. The fiestas
start in a few hours as I wash off as much as possible 1,200 miles of dust. The lively music, old friends, green chili,
beans, and sopapillas await. I know that
my mom and dad and all my uncles and aunts who did the very same thing long ago
are happy that I’m here in La Joya.
As the music begins, I cross the pasture near the dance hall
with my flashlight. Two horses are grazing nearby. I sure hope they leave
my gear alone continuing towards the church, laughter, and the bright lights.
“I have a special request,” as the lead
musician leans over to hear what I say. “Please dedicate the
next song to Ernie Griego. He is
recovering from knee surgery in Barstow and could not come here this
year.” He shakes his head, and the
announcement is made.
The dancers go
onto the dance floor and the beat of the Mexican song is lively. Ernie would be out there dancing now if he
could. This song is for you!
The cemetery is there.
I see that Marcello has been busy planting flowers with a water drip
system to keep them growing. My respects
are paid quietly to all our families as I hum the words of Roberto Griego’s, Arriba Nuevo Mexico ~ “…los Griegos, Romeros, y los Moyas…”
Sofia’s Kitchen in Socorro is perhaps the best Mexican
restaurant in the state. The food is
exceptional and they sometimes have live music.
Decision time. “Sir, red or green
on your huevos rancheros?” The pause
tells her that my decision is difficult. “Today it will be red. Please add some sopapillas too.”
Three musicians enter the restaurant with
their guitars. They wear cowboy hats and
I remember the lead cowboy from a few years ago.
His name is Doug Figgs.
I pass him a note letting him know how much I
love his cowboy lyrics and music. His
wife comes to my table and asks if there is a song I’d like to hear. Honored, I reply “Anything by Johnny Cash.” “The next song will be by Johnny Cash,” she says as she walks back to the stage where she whispers in his ear. There are two additional musicians and with
the next song, they strum the cords to Johnny Cash’s song ~ A Ring of
Fire. I loved it!
My route home is along the slower scenic highway 60. At Springerville, Arizona I’ll go north on
180 and 91 to Chinle. The campground run
by the Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation is perfect for the night. I normally lay down my camping tarp and sleep
on the ground. Not tonight.
There are millions of small red ants
everywhere. Most of the other campers
around are in RV trailers. There are
several cottonwood trees and I rig up my hammock and think about tomorrow.
I have seen Canyon De Chelly National Monument before from the high canyon walls and hiked down into the canyon. Tomorrow, I’ll hire a Navajo guide and travel
horseback into the canyon. This is such
an inspiring and sacred place. I've ridden extensively in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks and I'm looking forward to this particular horse ride.
Stanley,
of the Tso’s Horse Tours, greets me warmly at 9:30 a.m. as promised. “It looks like it will be only the two of us,”
he says finishing up his breakfast. Then
he gets a call that a second person will join us.
John is from Alabama and the three of us trot off into the canyon's quiet and the past.
Having a Navajo guide adds so much history to
the ride and Stanley seems to love what he does. In a quiet moment, Stanley’s horse bolts
left, then right. After controlling his
steed, Stanley leads him back to where it got spooked. “Look,” Stanley says to his horse in Navajo. “It is just a stick.” Laughing, he says that they ride up here
thousands of times and his horse still thinks that the stick is a snake.
The Navajo reservation is huge and I am on small roads. Approaching Leupp, I spot a van selling tamales. "They are freshly made and hot," the Navajo man tells me. "We have green and red chili tamales," he adds. I find a little shade and enjoy three delicious tamales ~ 1 red and 2 green.
In Barstow, Leo is getting off work and we head off to his
house for some tamales, green chili, and beans.
I’m impressed. Irma is not home
and Leo prepares dinner by himself.
Something unheard of by many of us.
It will be dark traveling home but the cool air feels good.
It has been a great 7-day trip out to the fiestas of La Joya and having a Johnny Cash song played for me was special.
I arrive home in Three Rivers near midnight after 2,171 incredible miles.